The simple act of driving to a common destination is Malaysian in every sense. During the festive seasons, neighbours, friends and relatives of all races and social background do just that to celebrate and share their joy.

It was with that same spirit that compelled about 10,000 Malaysians to drive to Kg Jln Kebun, Shah Alam, Selangor, yesterday, for the 100,000 People's Gathering organised by Parti Keadilan.

It was the same eagerness of wanting to meet people with similar political inclinations which drove people from as far north as Kedah, Kelantan and Terengganu, and as far south as Johor and Melaka to join the convoy on Kesas Highway, with their kids in the backseats and baskets of food in their trunks.

Sadly, in Malaysia, an innocuous Sunday picnic can transform into a violent and unforgettable experience. For it is not your friendly neighbours, friends or relatives who are going to welcome you when you come a-knocking; it is the riot police with their tear gas and water cannon trucks.
'They act like dogs'

At 2pm when journalists arrived at Plaza Tol Kemuning along the Kesas highway - one of the exit points for those heading to the original meeting venue - the riot police were already attacking reformasi supporters with tear gas and rotan sticks. Five FRU trucks blocked the path about 3km from the toll gates.

In an attempt to foil the organisers' plan, police had blocked all roads to Kg Jln Kebun. They did not seem to realise (or perhaps they didn't care) that among those cars caught in the eventual traffic jam were also those who had no intention of joining the reformasi gathering. Many were local kampung folk heading home to Klang, Shah Alam or villages nearby.

Drivers, with "reformasi", "Keadilan" and "Save Anwar" stickers on their car screens, who braved police orders and continued driving, were dragged out of their cars. Police officers kicked and pounded the cars with rotan sticks, denting at least five cars. The drivers were handcuffed and jostled into police trucks.

"They act like dogs (anjing), we have to treat them like dogs," police officers were heard to say. Hardly surprising then, that the people expressed similar disgust at them.

By about 3pm, the action seemed to have eased on the roads leading to Kuala Lumpur. But the protestors had no intention of going home. Calls of "reformasi" and "Allah-hu-Akbar" could be heard on the other side of the toll gate. Cars on both sides of the highway formed a line that stretched to 6km from the Awan Besar Rest and Recreation area. Blue, red, white and green banners could been seen fluttering in the air.

Frustrated gatherers got out of their cars and waited. A woman caught hold of a journalist who was walking in the midst of the crowd.

"You are from the press," she said, clutching at the journalist's arm in agitated anger. "Write the truth. Write and tell (Prime Minister Dr) Mahathir (Mohamad) that we don't want him anymore."

"Why is he (Mahathir) so stubborn? Can't he see the rakyat simply hate him and do not believe in him anymore!" she cried, cursing the police for spraying the tear gas that hurt her eyes.

A group of pakcik, who professed to be ex-Umno members, shared similar sentiments.

"Do you know," said one, "I am a former Umno member and I can tell you in Umno, there is no more democracy. There is no way you can criticise the party even if you wanted only to improve it.

"Only now do I know how corrupt the leaders are. See how prices of consumer goods go up? We can never afford to live comfortably in the next few years. The financial crisis has shown us what a lousy government we have."

Another said, "The opposition is different. You can feel the difference when you join them in their ceramah and party work.

"In Kelantan, we know the difference between the PAS and BN government; never will we want Umno to rule again," he added.
Human chain
At 4.30pm and the peoples' spirits swelled as chanting of reformasi slogans became louder and louder. Ten minutes later, about 500m from the toll gates, the crowd gradually slowed down and started to get organised.

Barisan Alternatif leaders who had walked all the way from Awan Besar R&R area, protected by a human chain of supporters, went up on the highway dividers to address the crowd. They noted that 20 supporters had already been arrested, some badly hurt.

DAP's Lim Kit Siang, PRM's Dr Syed Husin Ali, PAS' Fadzil Mohd Noor and Keadilan's Dr Wan Azizah Wan Ismail (photo) took turns and spoke their piece. The message centred on freedom of speech, right to assemble peacefully, democracy, justice and reform.

"What a relief not to hear any rhetoric and ranting about Malay special rights, preservation of Chinese culture or the plight of Indian citizens in the country," someone said.

It was during PAS Youth chief Mahfuz Omar's firebrand speech that an incident occurred on the fringes of the highway behind the crowd. A special branch officer tussled with onlookers. Apparently, he had been provoking the crowd. The SB had smashed windows of a nearby car.

Some supporters shouted repeatedly for everyone to refrain themselves from being provoked, as there were those who wanted to teach the SB a lesson and give him a taste of his own medicine.

Shortly after that incident, a traffic policeman had ventured near the crowd and requested people to disperse. "No need to pay toll," he said. "I am telling you nicely now." But the gatherers refused to budge. Instead some pleaded with him to allow the gathering to go on. Keadilan's P Gobalakrishnan was seen negotiating with the officer.

Some supporters said the youth leaders will go to the toll gates to negotiate with the police. They said they still wanted to adjourn to Kg Kebun as planned.

However, before negotiations could take place, FRU trucks had sounded their brass bells and forced their way through the cars. Men armed with shields and rotan sticks stormed into the crowd.

A woman in tudung (head scarf) wearing a NGO Pemantau (observer) tag around her neck said, "The police told us there are going to hit those people really hard this time. They do not care anymore". She looked distressed as she pleaded with a journalist to "please do something".

A moment passed and tear gas pelted down in a frenzy all over the crowd which ran helter-skelter in various directions. The helicopter hovering above them earlier had also started to pour liquid irritants down on the crowd.
'God has seen everything today'
The entire tragedy lasted at least half an hour. The skies were beginning to darken. Police chased reformasi supporters, damaged cars parked on the side of the road, smashed window screens, kicked motorcycles down the stream beside the highway and whipped those who were still on the scene. Some witnessed the growing mayhem and fled.

Several men were handcuffed and dragged onto the truck. A man was spotted bleeding in his ears, cheeks and nose.

Soon the highway was cleared. At least 30 cars were damaged, their tyres flattened by police officers who had vented their frustration and anger onto the vehicles.

"We are so tired. That is all we know at this moment," said a young officer, possibly a new recruit, who shook his head as he surveyed their handiwork.

At about 7pm, the call to Maghrib prayers rang clear and pure in the quiet dusk. Some officers rushed into the R&R area, occupying even the women's toilet to prepare themselves for prayers. A couple of women, who had to wait outside the rest room for the men to come out, were talking among themselves, condemning the manner in which the whole thing was handled.

"If only they had let us go to the kampung and hear our leaders speak," one said, as others chorused their agreement. "All this would not have happened. There would be no traffic jam, no violence. We only want to gather peacefully."

"We ask for the sport complex, they refused us; we asked for permit to gather, they refused us; we want to meet on this private village land, they refused us. Where do they expect us to go? The police behaviour only make us hate Mahathir more," said another.

"Some of us are pregnant. We brought our children. Do you think we want trouble?" another voice added.

"Make your complaints to God Almighty (mengadulah kepada Allah)," a police officer who emerged from the rest room said, obviously having eavesdropped on their conversation.

With a spark of defiance still in her, one woman who obviously could not let the policeman have the last word after witnessing such an unjustified attack from the authorities, dared to retort back: "God has seen everything today (Allah telah melihat segala-galanya pada hari ini) ... the injustice, the violence, the sins of the ruling party.

"There is no need to complain to Him," she scorned as she made her way for doa.
Photos by Mohd Ali Syed Husin