An ex-classmate cum relative of mine, who hails from Tapah Road, Perak, recently sent me an SMS in the middle of the night, asking me where he could find a food outlet that sells authentic laksa. Being a laksa connoisseur myself, I instantly guided him to a stall within a food court known as the PPS, located somewhere in Bandar Baru Ampang. In the true blue spirit of a laksa fanatic, he immediately went there and I followed suit, just to find out that the stall was not open on that particular night.

We and our other halves had some nice chicken tom yam, porridge and satay instead, but despite satisfying our hunger, the craving for laksa lingered. We spent the better part of the next hour discussing about laksa, and came to realize that the intensity of craving for laksa ranks high compared to other dishes.

I realised that I was addicted to laksa during a trip back to my hometown, which is Teluk Intan, when my mother told my other half about my childhood laksa feats. My sister also grew up to be an authority of sorts as far as laksa was concerned. So are my offsprings. Cook up a large pot of delicious laksa, and we won't want to eat anything else for the next couple of days.

Laksa connoisseur

There's a downside to being a laksa connoisseur. There's a wide variety of laksa, ranging from tasty to acceptable to downright plain or lousy (though ultimately it all boils down to your own individual preference), thus making it rather impossible to form a National Laksa Lovers Society. I'm yet to meet an individual who claims to like laksa in all its variations.

In the riverside town of Kuala Kangsar in Perak, laksa is deemed so popular that the local municipal council even built a whole complex by the Perak River, known as 'Medan Cendol & Laksa', selling nothing else but those. And it has become quite popular, especially with the students of Malay College (MCKK).

Being an Ampangite, I once stumbled upon a Pakcik selling 'Laksa Perak' at a night market along Jalan Ampang, past Ampang Point and just before Taman Datuk Ahmad Razali. It had a real authentic taste, but I pointed out to him that there's no such thing as a 'Laksa Perak'. Instead his sign should have indicated 'Laksa Kuala Kangsar' or, simply, 'Laksa KK' (putting just 'Laksa Kuala' could be confused with 'Laksa Kuala Kedah'). He followed my non-legal advice and has since proudly reported brisk sales.

Now, those names alone would have confused the average layman. You see, the taste of laksa is so localized, that often it's named after a town, place or even a man (such as 'Laksa Pak Mail'), rather than after larger things such as the State. So, next time you want to ask a friend where to find laksa, you'd be well advised to be a little bit more specific, lest you'd find yourself in an embarrassing situation, never mind the time, money and the laksa (of whatever variation) wasted.

To start with, the word 'Laksa' itself may have been derived from the Sanskrit word 'Lakhsa' meaning 'Hundred Thousand'; possibly referring to the many condiments often used to make the dish complete. Despite this Sanskrit origin in its namesake, laksa is not known or claimed to have originated from India.

Alternatively, it might have been taken from 'Daun Laksa', after the name of the plant used as a main ingredient in its sauce. Problem is, we never knew whether the dish got its name from the plant, or the plant got its name from the dish. It might be dangerously akin to saying that Muar or Bandar Sri Maharani got its name from its shuttle bus service, the Sri Maharani Express.

Types of laksa

In general, laksa is a form of noodle soups with a dominant fish gravy. Different localities present a variety; whether in terms of its gravy, its condiments as well as how and when it is eaten. The more established are as described below. These are, however, mere brief descriptions and are by no means a comprehensive guide to all things Laksa, and I have willfully refrained to comment good or bad on their respective tastes. You are welcome to add your own experience/preference.

Laksa Kuala Perlis

There's actually little separating Laksa Kuala Perlis, Laksa Kuala Kedah and Laksa Penang. It always takes a Johari to know a Maknikam (though Manikam does not necessarily always know this Johari). Generally Laksa Kuala Perlis and Kuala Kedah have thicker gravy than that of Laksa Penang. Laksa Kuala Perlis was famous because they used eel instead of fish. I'm not sure, however, whether they still use eel.

Laksa Kuala Kedah

Rice noodles mixed with fish, belacan, chillies and others. Quite hot for those who are not used to it. The gravy is usually thick and tasty.

Laksam

This variation is also more popular in Kedah and some parts of Northern Perak. Instead of ordinary noodles, they use noodles that look like kuay teow. It has some coconut milk and tastes more sour (hence the additional 'm' which makes it sound partly like 'masam'). To be differentiated from Laksa Assam or Assam Laksa.

Laksa Penang

Arguably the most famous Laksa. Similar to Laksa Kuala Kedah, but with lighter fish gravy. Famous perhaps because, being Penang in origin, it gets more coverage in tourist brochures along with Nasi Kandar, Bukit Bendera and the Snake Temples.

Assam Laksa

Also popular in Penang. Clear noodles. Tastes more sour with lighter gravy.

Laksa Kelantan

Same noodles but, like all Kelantanese dishes, more sweet. Less sour and less taste of fish. May even be a misnomer because of its difference in taste.

Laksa Kuala Kangsar

White rice noodles (as opposed to the nearly transparent ones in other Laksa types). Lighter gravy. Not so sour and not so hot. A good start if you are a beginner, before you actually graduate to the more thick gravy and spicy ones.

Laksa Nyonya

Laksa in coconut curry soup. More like an extended family to Curry Mee. Sometimes even referred to as Laksa Kari. You can even be forgiven to equate it with Curry Mee. Sometimes topped with chicken, beef and or shrimp.

Laksa Johor

Instead of noodles, it is spaghetti drenched (not actually mixed) in very thick fish sauce. Has strong curry flavour. Sometimes even mixed with peanut gravy. A large variety of condiments to choose from (or to be put all in). Usually eaten using one's hand, instead of using fork and spoon. Some suspect it's a derivative of, or a fusion between, or even corruption of, the original Laksa and Spaghetti Bolognese.

Katong Laksa (or also called Laksa Singapore)

Laksa in coconut curry. Not much difference from Laksa Nyonya. Normally topped with shrimp.

I'm faithful

Most Laksa are taken with boiled eggs, onions and an assortment of other condiments. There's actually no hard and fast rule about it, though I have yet to find somebody adventurous enough to add budu or tempoyak to it. Perhaps other Laksa connoisseurs could further comment and add to this or, more desirably, share some information on where to find the various types of Laksas, together with its rating out of ten.

Which is not to mean that I don't enjoy other delicacies. It's just that everybody else could go and talk about Mee Kari, Mee Bandung, Nasi Dagang, Nasi Kerabu, Tempoyak, Cincalok or Budu. Or spaghettis and pizzas. Or even tiramisu, chocolate or cheese cakes, and chances are I wouldn't crave for them. So go ahead and try to SMS me at any midnight for all you're worth. It's Hard To Say I'm Sorry. Or Sorry Seems To Be The Hardest Word. But I'd still have to say sorry, guys.


ZAIM AL-AMIN is a lawyer by profession, currently attached as Group Legal Advisor in the Legal, Secretarial & Contracts Department of an Oil & Gas company. His love of writing, as he jokingly puts it, stemmed from his sleepless nights due to occasional bouts of insomnia, and he hopes to cure other insomniacs by putting them to sleep reading them.

His blog is at http://zaimhq.blog-city.com and you may contact him at: zaimhq@gmail.com.